This exhibition explores the role of a fashion garment as a socio-political carrier. The hoodie tells many stories - tales of social inequality, youth culture, subculture, police brutality, racism, privacy, fear and style. It is a garment that sparks a range of emotions, communicating all manner of social and cultural ideas and nuances depending on the gender, geography, age, conduct and ethnicity of the wearer and, in turn, the prejudices and politics of the viewer. Popularised by Champion in the 1930s, the hoodie was a practical solution for workmen; it is now, arguably, Western Fashion’s last truly political garment.
The hoodie is at the centre of contemporary dress, hyped as a trend and a must-have item, but elsewhere, is also a signifier of moral panic, banned by certain institutions and dissected by the media as an emblem for inequality, crime or deviancy.
Curated by Lou Stoppard, The Hoodie is a dynamic mixed media exhibition, uniting artworks with garments, printed matter, digital footage, social media posts and other cultural artefacts. It will explore distinct and intersectional themesincluding the rise of surveillance culture and facial recognition technology; music and subculture; conversations around androgyny and gender fluidity; and the breakdown of traditional dress codes. The show will examine these themes in relation to the hoodie, challenging the viewer to consider its multifaceted relationship with contemporary culture. The exhibition will also contextualise the hoodie in fashion history, tracing its evolution from 1930s workwear to icon of streetwear.
The Hoodie brings together diverse artists and makers whose work in photography, film, installation, fashion, and other media is connected by a mutual interest in these central themes. It will feature work by seminal artists and photographers such as David Hammons, Campbell Addy, Sasha Huber, John Edmonds, Lucy Orta and Thorsten Brinkmann, as well as designers such as Rick Owens, Off-White, VETEMENTS, and Vexed Generation. Also on display will be specially commissioned installations by Bogomir Doringer and Angelica Falkeling.
Exhibiting Artists: Rick Owens, VETEMENTS, Exactitudes, Vexed Generation, C.P. Company, Off-White, Lucy Orta, Devan Shimoyama, Prem Sahib, Sasha Huber, John Edmonds, Bogomir Doringer, Campbell Addy, Thorsten Brinkmann, Tiane Doan Na Champassak, Angelica Falkeling, IGNAZ, Daniëlle van Ark, Wouter Paijmans, Lisette Appeldorn, Dana Lixenberg, David Hammons, Aitour Throup and David Casavant.
Lou Stoppard is a writer and independent curator.
To provide site-specific perspective, the exhibition and events programme has been developed with Malique Mohamud (Studio Narrative) and Chinouk Filique de Miranda. Exhibition design by Studio LA.
The show will be accompanied by a digital magazine featuring specially commissioned essays, interviews and visuals.
An events programme of talks and workshops to accompany the exhibition will be announced in November 2019.
- agatha connolly